Iwas asked to investigate a barbecue sauce recipe that was submitted by Billy Roeder to the Fredericksburg PTA Cookbook’s 11th and 12th editions. Deanna Fischer thought it unusual for a male to have submitted a recipe. Most — likely 99%-100% — were submitted by mothers.
It turns out that Billy wasn’t the first man to have submitted a recipe. The first was actually contributed by Clarence (Pepper) Probst to the 6th edition in 1948. At least I think he was the first — only Glen Treibs can reveal if Probst’s recipe or any other submitted by a male appeared in the 4th or 5th editions. These editions are extremely rare, and he is the only person I know who has them.
Nevertheless, it appears grilling and barbecuing was becoming a post World War II “male” thing across America. Perhaps, Emilie Henke Pressler did not wish to relinquish grilling to males, because she also submitted her “BarbecueQ Sauce for Meats” for the 6th edition. She had, after all, established the first Home Economic program at Fredericksburg High School.
Pressler taught here from 1940-1945. Perhaps she wanted to show that American women were ready for a new role in a post-war America.
It was generally thought that girls should return to their homes in the post war economy. By 1948, women everywhere were losing the jobs that they had performed admirably during WWII. Returning veterans needed those jobs, but the chicken that had so effectively kept women in the home for eons had flown its coop. Postwar America was changing and even rather isolated communities like Fredericksburg could not escape shifting times. During the late 1940s and early 1950s, returning American servicemen and their families had also started migrating to the suburbs. Here, not so much, but some men did move out of doors to assume a new role with openair cooking — some even donned aprons! Omas and Opas all over town were shaking their heads.
To supply this new trend, new yard toys appeared at the local Western Auto. Those first barbecue grills were mostly a shallow sheet-metal pan typically sitting atop spindly legs. Most had no vents and grilling on these early grills often became a dicey proposition. Stiff breezes, smoke, and an occasional flying ember proved challenging, but it wasn’t long before something other than ketchup was needed to spruce up the meat being grilled.
“Barbecue sauces” arrived, and these sauces may explain why those weekend outings did not escape the attention of the ladies of the Fredericksburg PTA. Someone had to make these simple sauces because ketchup needed help.
Commercial sauces began to emerge, making it easier for people to enjoy the delicious condiments at home. The explosion of canned tomatoes in the ’50s and ’60s played a significant role in the mass production of these. At Texas A&M, we mixed our own at chow using mainly Tabasco. The hot sauce craze was just beginning. Today, there are countless brands and flavors — even chipotle.
For the 8th edition (1962), the ladies chose a Brown Mushroom Sauce submitted by Dora Priess Usener, the wife of former judge, Herman Usener — her recipe pulled some judicial weight. Sauces now mattered. Two new sauces were included in the 9th edition. One, a Barbecue Sauce by Claribel Wilke Hannemann. She was my cousin and was married to Wally Hannemann. A Mexican Hot Sauce by Veda Mae Randol Dooley, wife of John Dooley of Dooley’s 5¢, 10¢ & 25¢ fame also appeared, as well as two Hot Dog Sauces. These had some power behind them, as well. One was submitted by Elise Weber Kowert, who was married to Art Kowert, and the other was submitted by Evelyn Kneese Stork who was married to Clinton Stork. He was the owner of the Sunset Service Station at the Y of U.S. 87 and 290. For the 10th edition the BBQ Sauce of Clarence (Pepper) Probst returned.
Adding sauces for meats likely began in the American south, but pinpointing the exact time barbecue sauce originated isn’t easy. We can make educated guesses. Perhaps missionaries had seen natives adding peppers to the lemons and limes they’d brought from the old world. Somehow, this new concoction was taken to the American south where vinegar was added in the 1800s.
With time these evolved. Texas barbecue was primarily beefbased. Sauces began being used to marinate meats. Regional differences arose because the ingredients reflected various waves of arriving immigrants. Even these continued to change.
But then, processed foods arrived. Refrigerated and frozen foods followed, changing everything beginning in the ’30s as more and more homes had electricity.
Perhaps donning a chef’s hat and an apron, the man of the house took to the out-of-doors in remembrance of a cave man hunting his next meal. Most grillers look for a certain something that will take their food to the next level. Oh, to throw a steak on those glowing, hot coals, hear the sizzle and to know that soon one would be slathering that delicious looking meat with a sauce. Too bad that those grilling juices falling on those hot coals sizzling away couldn’t be saved. Many flared up enveloping the meat in a kiss of fire. Perfect. The ash and soot adds a bit, too, Anticipating the moment of finally biting into a piece of tender grilled meat is exciting. Grilling, after all, is an art that was learned in our earliest days.
Ingredients
2 tbsp. brown sugar 1 tbsp paprika 1 tsp salt 1 tsp dry mustard ¼ tsp chili powder 1/8 tsp cayenne pepper 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce ¼ cup vinegar
½ cup water 1 cup tomato juice ¼ cup catsup
Procedure
1. Mix all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer for 15 minutes.
2. During last ½ hour of grilling swab meat at 15-minute intervals and repeat.
3. Serve any leftover with meat.
